Posted at 10.07.2018
What is a wrinkle free shirt?
A wrinkle free shirt is a garment that is treated so it preserves its condition, soft appearance and creases after laundering. If the garment is tumble dried out, little Ironing or No ironing is required.
Wrinkle free materials can tolerate even the roughest of treatment. Despite the fact that Wool is a lot more powerful than cotton, this method is mostly done with cotton fabric. Cellulosic fiber including fabrics are made resistant to creases by the use of a durable wrinkle- free process which comprises the treating a cellulosic fibre with formaldehyde, a resin with a catalyst, a softener, polywax emulsion and an Optical Brightening agent.
The process is carried out in conditions of which the formaldehyde reacts with the cellulose in the presence of a catalyst and a softener to enhance the wrinkle resistance of the fabric and better tear power after laundering with less treatment.
The most frequent agencies that crosslinks among themselves and leads to the wrinkle free coatings are often the derivative of Urea.
Figure 1. 0 show the crosslinking between DMDHEU (dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea) and DMEU (dimethylol ethylene urea)
Figure 1. 0
Nowadays most of the wrinkle free tee shirts are being made up of cotton and synthetic fibers even if the label declares 100% cotton. Because of the loose polices, a list additional materials is essential in the cloth if the supplementary fibers exceed a certain ratio of the complete garment which affects its quality and could result in tops that don't previous as long as they ought to. Some wrinkle free tops are not designed to be pressed at a specialist dry out cleaner because the more the heat is, the greater exposed the t shirts are to the discoloration of the resins used during creation.
What are the components that the resin comprises of?
A catalyst is asubstance that speeds up a chemical response, but is not consumed by the reaction; hence a catalyst can be retrieved chemically unchanged by the end of thereaction. The pace and quickness of the response is positively afflicted by the existence of your catalyst. It speeds up the reaction and allows an improved flow
For chemicals to behave with the cellulosic fibres, the ingredients involved in the reaction should have a rearrangement of substance bonds. Energy is needed to form the transition state and it is called the vitality of activation. Reactants with lower energy cannot react with high energy ones and this is where in fact the catalyst is utilized so that it offers a different option for the reaction. The catalyst allows a larger percentage of reactant types in order that they gain enough energy to pass through the transition condition and complete the response. This will end result in to the perfect circulation of chemicals throughout the t shirts.
There are usually 2 types of softener that are being used and it depends upon the structure, colour and level of resistance of the fabric being utilized.
i) An elastomer softener is used and it is an impressive finishing agent, mainly composed of multifunctional polyurethane. It increases wrinkle restoration and stops wrinkle of fabric. The softener also offers perfect elasticity to the fabrics and it generally does not cause yellowing on white textiles.
It is a viscous liquid with a pH of 6. 5, a nonionic product which is very soluble in normal water.
Normally 1-4 % of the weight of the fabric is added with a pickup of 80% maximum. Treating should be performed at 180deg maximum.
ii) A Silicon softener is also used and it a highly concentrated softener normally found in gel form. Silicone normally delivers superiority in softness and smoothness of clothes. It gives the clothing a durable soft handle and incredibly smooth feel. In addition, it increases crease restoration, form depth and brilliancy when applied on dyed textiles.
It is a translucent liquid and is also a mixture of amino silicones and urethane. It is a non-ionic chemical with a pH of 7 and is soluble in normal water. A pickup of 70-80% should be used and maximum temp should be around 130 diplomas.
3) Optical Brightening Agent
Fibers contain natural or contaminant colouring matters are usually subjected to decolorisation by different bleaching methods therefore chemical substance treatments have to be done so that each substance are neutralized and an optical brightening agent can be used.
In order to use an optical brightener for textile application, it should have a good solubility, good fastness properties, build up properties, exhaustion properties, effect of water hardness, good leveling and penetrating properties, shouldn't absorb light, compatible with the other chemicals in the focus and should be secure and fast to the oxidative and reductive bleaching agents.
Types ofWrinkle Free Process of Cotton T shirts:
This concept of non-iron shirts existed because the very origins of cotton shirt making decades earlier. Polyester and other fibers were firstly tried out but the effect was simply a failure and it is then that the consumers got to know about the positive properties of the cotton fiber content. The ability of cotton fibres to hold water and release it manipulated makes cotton one of the best materials among all. It's got a good breathability and provides a feeling of comfort to the user. Since some 15 years back again, new methods have been set up to make use of chemicals with the cotton fiber to make them almost wrinkle free and there are mainly 4 types of methods that are used:
Vapor - Phase
Pre- Cured fabric:
The fabric used can be a 100% cotton textile or a cotton combination and when compared with the other techniques, this method will not require any more heat therapy as curing has already been done before the manufacture of the shirt. The already finished fabric is tolerant to wrinkles already.
Post- Cured fabric:
In this system also, 100% cotton cloth or cotton blends can be used and the textile will be sent with the healing chemicals found inside. After the shirt have been manufactured, it needs to be ironed totally and hanged in a oven indicating a temperatures of 130C to 150C.
Dip- Spin system:
This method is the most commonly used process to create wrinkle free shirts and can be used both for 100% cotton and cotton mixes. Following the full assembling of the shirt, it'll be dipped into an assortment of chemicals which is utilized by the cotton fibres. The shirt being moisturized is held in a closed down bucket and you will be pressed totally. After pressing, the t-shirts will be put onto a hanger and will be sent to treat in an range of about 140C for 5 minutes maximum.
This one belongs to the most popular process for wrinkle free tops and can be used for 100 % cotton fabric or cotton mixes. Following the shirt is produced as usually, it'll be dipped into an assortment of chemicals, which is soaked up by the cotton fibres. Following the treatment in a tumbler the shirt is still moisturized and has to be pressed totally. After pressing the shirt will be placed on the hanger and can be treated in a curing range by about 140C for approximately 3 -5 min. Following the curing process is over, all wrinkles will tay forever. A re-touching by an flat iron is impossible. This is the procedure that I will be emphasizing more in the next pages.
Vapor - Stage:
This method can't be used in many countries as very competitive chemicals are being used. It practices the same system as the Drop Spin which is manufactured just as. After the last pressing, a special curing over is utilized instead of liquid chemicals, gas chemicals are being used to make the shirt wrinkle free. The gas circulating throughout the range and slowly but surely penetrates the cotton fiber. The gas needs to be extracted later on and the merchandise have to be washed to be able to remove the surplus chemicals remaining inside.
Garment dipping in Mauritius
I have discussed above about the different components and procedures towards the development of the Non-Iron shirt on international lands. Coming now to Mauritius where this process was integrated only by Laguna Clothing in the year 2012. It had been introduced on the pilot project and many assessment were conducted before taking any command word from their in another country clients. Gradually the several machines like the sprayer, dryer, bulk press and the oven were installed. After 1 year they started to get demands to create Non iron shirts and at first they produced around 500 tee shirts per day but with the increase in commands, that they had to boost the creation and nowadays they produce around 1000-1200 t-shirts per day according to the client requirements.
Batches of 80-90 tops are delivered for handling at one go and it take approximately one hour to complete 4 steps that is following the removal from the oven and an additional 4 hours to complete the finishing of the merchandise. Additional information will be provided in the areas to check out.
The department includes 5 huge machines, the sprayer, 3 dryers and 1 oven. Bulk press machine. . GAIN MAXIMUM INFORMATION REGARDING THIS WITH CEDRIC
How is the complete process carried out?
First and foremost size segregation is a compulsory step that needs to be done to be able to develop an instant move of work. Each size has got a specific mould.
The first step that is performed is the size segregration which allows a rapid move of work through the whole process
The second step is the prep of the chemicals that might be injected into the shirts.
The clothes are inserted into a chemical injecting machine and the procedure lasts limited to some minutes and from then on the t shirts are delivered into a pre drying machine where they are dried out at 50 % and kept humid.
The tee shirts are then sent for bulk pressing under huge pressing machines. There are 5 different machines and each part of a given shirt has got its own given machine.
The collar, again, front, sleeves and cuffs are pressed and each one of these processes should be completed into a given time frame.
The tops are then sent into an oven in order to remedy them. Wooden hangers are normally used at the temps is usually high.
The t-shirts are then sent into the cooling down room where drinking water are sprayed with them to cool them down and bring skin pores back to original form.
Shirts are tested and delivered for rinsing 20 times and healing is done.
Tensile and rip strength lab tests are also completed to determine whether the material can be dipped
A pick up test can be used for woven and non woven